Rome and Tivoli
Our itinerary in Rome focuses on the career of Michelangelo, and then moves to the Reformation, Counter Reformation, and the Age of the Baroque. This is a period of tremendous challenge for the Catholic Church. In the face of these challenges, some extraordinary characters and fantastic innovations in the arts emerge—especially those of Bernini, Borromini, and Caravaggio.
When I think of Italy, I can’t help but wonder if there’s something in the dirt. The wonderful people, the spectacular art, the vibrant, polychrome stone and rich culinary tradition…there must be something in the earth from which it all comes. Since my daughter Emily joined me as a culinary guide on these trips to Rome, she has opened up even more opportunities to appreciate and enjoy the abundance that emerges from the Italian soil—an abundance that has been carefully stewarded by farmers, butchers, bakers, and cooks for generations. We both look forward to exploring the vast richness of this special place with you!
- Michael and Emily
Sample Itinerary
Day One:
Arrive in Rome
Settle in at the Hotel Portoghesi, check out our next door neighbor: Chiesa di Sant’Antonio dei Portoghesi (pictured right)
Visit San Pietro in Montorio, the Tempietto, stroll through Trastevere, and visit San Francesco a Ripa
Lunch on your own
Afternoon stroll: Getting to know our neighborhood, walking to St. Ivo, The Pantheon, and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Evening Lecturette: The Building of St. Peter’s Basilica
Dinner with Emily: Introducing the Roman Classics
Walk to Giolitti for gelato
Day Two:
Morning Lecture: The Building of St. Peter’s Basilica
Stroll to Sant’Andrea della Fratte, the Piazza Navona, the Four Rivers Fountain, St. Agnese in Agone
Lunch with Emily: Exploring Regional Italian Pizzas and Seasonal Vegetables
Visit St. Peter’s Basilica
Afternoon on your own
Dinner with Emily: Contemporary Takes on Roman Classics
Day Three:
Stroll to taxi queue for ride to Santi Quattro Coronati
Walk to San Pietro in Vincoli for Michelangelo’s Moses
Lunch with Emily: A Voyage to Sicily
Afternoon lecture: Two Heroes of the Counter Reformation: St. Filippo Neri & St. Ignazio Loyola
Walk to The Gesu and The Chiesa Nuova
Dinner on your own
Day Four:
Morning Lecturette: Caravaggio, Ruffian of the Baroque
Visit San Luigi dei Francesci and San Agostino; four paintings by Caravaggio
Visit the Galleria Borghese
Lunch with Emily: The Magic of Truffles
Meet at the obelisk in Piazza Santa Maria del Popolo
Dinner with Emily: Our Neighborhood Trattoria
Day Five: Tivoli
Stroll from Hotel Portoghesi to the Baroque Jewel: St. Ivo alle Sapienza by Francesco Borromini
Vans depart Hotel Portoghesi for Tivoli
Tour the Villa d’Este and The Gardens
Lunch with Emily: Ristorante Sibilla in Tivoli, the most beautiful dining experience in the world!
Return to Hotel Portoghesi
Evening Lecture: Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel
Dinner on your own
Day Six:
Tour of the Vatican Museum, with early entry via the Patrons of the Vatican with guide Ami Fournier. Visit The Sistine Chapel, Raffaello Stanza, and the Tapestry restoration lab. Compare and Contrast two titans of the Renaissance: Michelangelo and Raffaello.
Lunch excursion with Emily: Roman Jewish Cuisine
Visit Santa Maria della Pace and Chiostro dal Bramante, have a drink at the Cafe
Dinner with Emily: Traditional Wood-Fired Family Recipes from Rome and Umbria
Day Seven:
Morning Lecturette: Bernini, Borromini, and the Rivalry that Shaped Baroque Rome
Visit Santa Maria della Vittoria, San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, Sant’Andrea al Quirnale, and pop into the Palazzo Barberini
Lunch with Emily: Slow Food from Emilia-Romagna
Afternoon on your own
Drinks on the rooftop of the Hotel Portoghesi
Dinner with Emily: Trivia Night and prizes!!!! Notes allowed!!
Day Eight:
Depart Rome
